Let’s take a moment to enjoy the
other week that was Men’s Fashion Week, Fall 2014
DRIES VAN NOTEN
The transition and saturation of colour through this collection is beautiful, if not the strongest I saw for mens. Not to mention the layering and relevance of high-tech, performance driven details translated through wearable street styles in bold… colour!
The cross over from casual/ street, performance/ athletic to business professional is practically interchangeable now as details from each are brought over to the other. The use of pinstripe on outerwear, denim over & under suiting and cargo pockets on pinstripe was particularly strong with this collection.
YOHI YAMAMOTO (top) & PAUL SMITH (bottom)
I intentionally paired these two collections together. Integrally they are different companies in their approach to design. However I loved how the two collections complemented one another through colour and tone. Yohi’s collection featured male models of all ages, undoubtedly their collection transcends all ages. Meanwhile, youth & adolescence was strong at Paul Smith, literally these kids… were just that… boys! The styling inspirations from came from Jim Morrison, Dylan, Mick Jagger & even Bowie. Both collections are androgynous with elements of masculinity represented through floral an tonal shades of watermelon, mauve and black.
In the last couple years, Thom Browne has made quite the name for himself. Particularly in the theatrics of his collections. Beyond proportion or scale, each collection shares a special message beyond his iconic shrunken suites. This time it was the “hunted” & the “hunter”. Tightly tailored suites adorned by the mask of an animal walked the runway the first half of the collection, while the second half represented the well feed, over indulgent opulence of the hunters in a beautiful array of tonal grey prints and embroidered appliqués. A sign of the times, perhaps…
Overall, I find the correlation and transparency between men’s and women’s fashion incredibly interesting and is becoming more and more liquified. There have been amble times I’ve looked through women’s collections and had I not looked up to identify it was a women, I wouldn’t have exactly known. Such is the same with men’s fashion. Androgyny. Not everyone is comfortable with it. The “defined” line between masculine and feminine doesnt always exist in the world of fashion, certainly not luxury fashion.
Personally, I love it. I love seen the trickle down effect to teenage boys wearing skinny jeans, draped scarfs and beanies. I am pretty sure when I was in middle school or high-school those kids would have been teased and were only talking 10-15 years ago… okay maybe that is a long time ago, I dont know. It does not feel like that long ago, despite the world has changed so much since then.
Never the less, it is amazing to see men in colour, prints, pattern! The last decade of fashion is quite astonishing when you think about it. Revivals from the late 60′s, 70′s, early 80′s and liberation to what felt like a surpressed late 80′s & 90′s. All those old stereotypes and “societal norms” broken down through personal expression of clothing. Awesome!
In conclusion (because why not conclude todays post)
After reading recent articles from the Business of Fashion about the logistics and differences of mens fashion week from London, Milan/ Florence & Paris. I think I am in agreement that Paris held the strongest collections. Thoughts?
All photos from Style.com